Cape Breton, Nova Scotia

Cape Breton is an island of Nova Scotia on the eastern end. We crossed the causeway Wed and headed for North Sydney and a campground 3 miles from the ferry to NewFoundland. 

Lookoff (turnout) on Cape Breton highway

After booking the campground for 2 days, I called to book a ferry date of Fri 7/30, only to find out it's sold out at least 2 weeks ahead.With plans to be back in New York mid Sept., we don't have the time to wait out a trip to Newfie. Maybe next time. Too many things not in our favor of making the trip. 


So today we ventured out in the wind and rain to Louisbourg, site of a reconstructed French fort built in 1713. The road to the fort follows the north coast, called the Marconi trail, and we went through small fishing villages. We arrived in Louisbourg, followed the signs to the fort and end up at a visitor center. No fort in site. After the Citadel in Halifax, I expected a big deal. This has been a great reconstruction project by Parks Canada since 1960, cost twice as much to get in and we see nothing. We're directed to a bus that takes us to the other side of the bay.

Louisbourg fort

 Whoa, now there's a fort. Louisbourg was a walled city, over 80 buildings, governors "palace" that looks slightly like the Versailles, military personnel and cannons. It has been carefully excavated, reproduced, reconstructed down to the hinges and nails. People in period costumes "run"' different stores or businesses and discuss life in the 18th century. It was like being in an old French town, very impressive and well worth the visit.

Oldest lighthouse in Canada

Cape Breton is a mix of people. Natives are the Mi'k ma'k, the French arrived early and settled all around the island and other parts of Nova Scotia. They were called Acadians. The English came in the 1700's, fought, took over and expelled the Acadians. The Gaelic influence is quite strong with Scottish communities, Gaelic schools, music and dance. All of these are still present on Cape Breton. In addition, there is the Cabot trail, well known National park and drive. So we will travel to the middle of the island to do more exploring of the Gaelic cultures, the Acadians, the inland lakes and the Cabot trail.

On the Road Again

The Culprit>

Woo Hoo... In the immortal words sung by Willie Nelson "On the road again. I just can't wait to get on the road again." It looks like tomorrow (7/27) we'll be travelin. The struts came this morning and got them installed with only minor swearing. Now to get 2 weeks worth of stuff we've dragged out put away and a little shopping and some fuel for the truck. We should be good to go tomorrow. Gail said we waited too long to make our ferry reservations for Newfoundland. Car service is sold out for over a week. We could walk on but wouldn't be able to take the truck. So, next time we'll hit Newfoundland. Still have a lot to see on Nova Scotia and PEI.

Yesterday was a rainy day so we took a drive to the north coast that sits along the Bay of Fundy. We ended up in a tiny fishing village, Halls Harbour. The tides was going out so some boats were still afloat. Farther down the coast we came to a dead end, at the cliffs edge. But hiding off to the side of the road were 2 unique houses, called Blue cottages. They were built in 1920-30 and are now owned by a Charles MAcDonald Society. I thought we were in a fairy tale.

After leaving the coast, we continued through the center of the peninsula, the Annapolis Valley. This is the agriculture area and there were plenty of roadside farmers markets to stop at. Corn, beans (yellow and purple), berries, tomatoes all plentiful. We have some corn to try for our next meal. One thing I've noticed is produce is reasonable in the markets, not so at the stands. But that's another entry, another day.

Boats, Buds & Booms

No, it's not Scotland or a guard in England.

Over the past week, we have been into Halifax, the capital of Nova Scotia. Our first trip was to the waterfront and harbor area. We walked along the boardwalk, enjoyed the different waterfront areas, and took a "sail" on a tall ship around the harbor.

It's a nice area for sightseeing and walking, plenty of shopping and eating. The harbor was interesting too. It is the second largest natural harbor in the world, next to Sydney, and was heavily fortified in the late 1700's-1800's. Remnants of cannons and forts can be seen on harbor islands and shores.

And the granddaddy of all forts in Nova Scotia is the Citadel, sitting atop a large hill overlooking the harbor. The Citadel is Canada's prized national historic site, well maintained and very interesting. We toured it today and arrived in plenty of time to wander the fort before the daily ceremonial cannon firing to mark noon. The 78th Scottish Highlander regiment was part of the fort complement back then and today people are in period costume, giving tours, explains life at the fort, playing pipes and drums.

Then we walked over to the Public Garden and strolled through a park with various flower gardens, streams, lakes and fountains throughout. It was a very nice day and many people were enjoying the park, gardens and weather.